Jay Andrew Biscarra: Young desginer debuts his first collection ‘Gender Neutralism’
Up-and-coming fashion designer Jay Andrew Biscarra has recently debuted his first collection ‘Gender Neutralism’.
Originally hailing from the Philippines, the 23-year-old fashion designer from South London has recently graduated from the London College of Fashion and now embarked on a new chapter in his career as a professional fashion designer.
In celebration of his debut collection, Youth Arts Online got together with Jay to discuss everything about him from A to Z including the inspirations behind his collection, the fashion industry as well as his work playlist.
When did you first want to study fashion and what really prompted you to pursue a career in fashion design?
“Growing up as a kid, you would always have so many things in mind that you want to be. One thing, for sure, that I have always known was to do something creative. I grew up having girls’ toys around me, and I would always design dresses – so I guess that’s how it all began.”
Tell us about your new collection; where you got your inspirations from, how it came about.
“My new collection is about my childhood. I remember taking everything out from my mother’s wardrobe and play around with them. The concept is pretty much about a child wanting to dress like a real adult. For research, I looked for inspiration from mod (subculture) and 1960’s fashion. I collaborated with a jewellery student who is also from LCF.”
I know that this is your first collection since graduating from university. How has the whole journey been so far?
“It’s a steep learning curve. The journey has been fun and satisfying, yet challenging at the same time. Challenging, in terms of me working on my own now. It was very tough finding the right people to work with. However, I managed to find amazing people to create my lookbook for the new capsule collection. You learn with every experience and grow quickly, and that’s what I’m doing now with my brand.”
As an LCF student, what was it like to be selected to do the press show before graduation?
“Being part of the press show was definitely once in a lifetime experience. (The press show is an annual show for chosen graduates to showcase their collection). It requires a lot of hard work and late nights! I collaborated with two talented students from Textiles and Menswear. Each look in our collection had laser cut wood and sewn individually by hand – very fragile collection I would say, but it was completely rewarding in the end.”
Do you have any designers or brands in particular that you admire or are interested in, and why?
“Most of the designers that I admire are Japanese, but, if I was to pick one, I would choose Yohji Yamamoto. His aesthetic and edgy style has strongly influenced my work.”
I know, as with any work, the process of designing and finalising clothes can be at times stressful. how do you stay motivated and what do you usually do in your spare time to relax?
“It can be quite difficult to have a work-life balance – although being with the people that I love really inspires and motivates me. It may sound cliché but its true. I like to read books in my spare time. Haruki Murakami is my new favourite author!”
What songs do you listen to when working?
“It really depends on what I am working on. If I am doing pattern cutting work or research, I tend to listen to classical music. Franz Liszt’s Le mal du pays is on the top playlist for that – quite dramatic I would say, but it’s relaxing. However, I like to listen to K-Pop music when I’m sewing. Even though I don’t fully understand Korean, I enjoy listening to it. Green Light by Girls’ Generation from the Lion Heart album ( just to be precise), is on repeat mode.”
What can we expect next?
“I have made a lot of plans, but a bit unsure where to begin! I know that I definitely want my own label in five years time. There’s definitely still a lot more things that I need to explore, learn and develop before starting a brand.”
Any advice for young people who want to follow suit and study fashion?
“Work hard! Always believe in your work. It is also important to not focus on making every thing perfect. You ought to make mistakes in order to develop!”
For more information, visit his website.